Colle di Val D'Elsa • Italia • Milano • Siena • Spas • Tuscany  
 

History    Sightseeing  Neighbors   Wine   Museums    Hotels

History

A short History

Colle Val d'Elsa, a fascinating old town that occupies the crest of a ridge high above the valley of the Elsa

Spread over three gradients, Borgo, Castello and Piano (the Borough, Castle and Plain), Colle di Val d'Elsa is famous today for its production of fine handcrafted crystal, but it is also an important tourist destination.

Flourishing in the Middle Ages, also thanks to the excellent trade brought by its vicinity to the Via Francigena, and elevated to the rank of city and bishopric in 1592, it does, in fact, combine typically mediaeval comers with a purely Renaissance expression.

The Borough is entered through the monumental Porta Nova and winds its long and narrow way in a sequence of fine 16th and 17th-century noble houses (especially notable are the Town Hall, Palazzo Usimbardi and Palazzo Buoninsegni) to the magnificent, though unfinished, Palazzo Campana, which marks the entry to the Castle, the oldest part of Colle. Here, the atmosphere suddenly changes: narrow paved lanes, fascinating tower-houses (amongst these stands the one where Arnolfo di Cambio was born), steeply sloping streets and flights of steps.

Piazza del Duomo is overlooked by the Praetorial Court, the seat of the Archaeological Museum, the Cathedral (17th-century in origin, with a pulpit and christening font by Giuliano da Maiano), the Bishops's Palace, housing the Museum of Sacred Art, and the picturesque Via delle Volte, the most characteristic corner of the town.

Passing little churches and 13th-century buildings, one reaches the Rampart with its fine view over the Plain on which the most modern part of Colle is built. This area, too, is not lacking in points of interest, such as the Churches of Saint Augustine (13th century in origin, but rebuilt in the '500 by Antonio da Sangallo) and the daring modern seat of the Monte dei Paschi di Siena Bank (1983) designed by Giovanni Michelucci.

Go back to top of page 

The Long History of it

Colle di Val d'Elsa or, more simply, Colle, is situated in the heart of Tuscany at a short distance from Florence, Siena, San Gimignano and Volterra. The earliest settlement dates back to remote Etruscan-Roman times. The town was mentioned by Dante (Purgatory XIII, verses 115-119) and prospered as a free, hard-working borough that frequently shifted its alliance from one to the other of its two powerful neighbouring cities: Florence and Siena. Cleverly devised canals (the so-called Gore) started channelling water from the river Elsa in the 11th century, providing the motive force needed for the production of wool, silk, iron, glass and above all paper.

Between the 13th end the 18th century paper was in fact the most important economic activity of the city. Renowned schools, artists (Arnolfo di Cambio, Cennino Cennini, Giovanni Maria Tolosani, Antonio Salvetti, Vittorio Meoni, Ferruccio Manganelli, Mino Maccari up to the present-day painter Walter Fusi), writers (Gano di Lapo, Minotto di Naldo, Lorenzo Lippi and Romano Bilenchi) and politicians (Bartolomeo Scala, Francesco Campana and the Usimbardi family) all earned it the honour of becoming City and Diocese in 1592. During the 17th and 18th centuries Colle was renowned for having remarkable cultural personalities among its citizens. Some of these were associated with outstanding figures of their time, such as Galileo Galilei and Vittorio Alfieri. 

The 19th century witnessed the decline of the paper mills, quickly substituted by foundries and glassworks. The expansion of the new, more advanced, industrial production caused the first social struggles, passionately debated in local papers. The most famous of these papers was "La Martinella", that later became the voice of the Tuscan Socialist Party. Nowadays, Colle di Val d'Elsa is known as the "City of Crystal", but its industrial activities are many and highly qualified and its cultural tradition has by no means been lost. Colle is geographically and morphologically divided into three sections (terzieri)

Go back to top of page 

Piano
The central point of this area is the large, rectangular square called Piazza Arnolfo, with porticoes on three of its sides. It was built just after the middle of the 19th century and it is the place where the local Friday market and many events throughout the year are held. From the square we can reach Piazza Bartolomeo Scala or Nova and, from there, Vallibona or Via Masson. The other direction leads to Via dei Botroni, Via della Ruota and Borgo di Spugna where we can see the branch of the bank Monte dei Paschi di Siena, designed by the architect Michelucci (1983). Further on we come across the Sanctuary of the Madonna del Renaio (16th century), opposite the great paper-mill known as Cartiera del Pragone, now converted into flats, and the Church of Santa Maria Assunta (dating back to the 10th century). From here we can catch a glimpse of the Badia, on the other side of the river. It once belonged to Giuliano della Rovere, who later became Pope Giulio II. It is now a hotel. 

Above the area known as Spugna we enter a beautiful park containing an olympic-size swimming-pool (Piscina Olimpia) and the Cartiera della Buca, a paper-mill dating back to the 14th century. We are near the area called la Buccia, birthplace of Romano Bilenchi. This is where the swiftly-flowing Piano and Spugna canals divide ("La divisa"). At a stone's throw from Piazza Arnolfo is the Cartiera di Mezzo, now a hotel, but once one of the largest paper-mills in Colle. At one time there were twenty or so of them! The Teatro del Popolo is just across. It hosts a rich theatre and cinema program every year. 

As we walk along Via dei Fossi, with the impressive remains of the glorious 19th century Vecchia Vetreria Boschi, we reach the Piazza and the Church of S. Agostino (13th-14th centuries), rebuilt in 1521 by Antonio da Sangallo il Vecchio. The medieval façade is still the original one, as can be seen in the miniature by Il Biadaiolo. Inside we can admire numerous works of art: Madonna with Child by Taddeo di Bartolo (14th-15th century), Martyrdom of S.Caterina d'Alessandria, attributed to the school of Vasari or Bronzino, Cappella Bertini (1598), a splendid example of a 16th-17th century noble family chapel - with the Pity of Christ, masterpiece by Cigoli - S. Sebastiano and S. Rocco (17th century), in polychrome wood, and the Madonna di Piano (15th century). 

Passing through the Porta Guelfa, the only remaining gate of the many original entrances of the Piano, we can reach the Quattro Cantoni, a characteristic crossroads dominated by the Castello. The roads stretching out from here are: Via Garibaldi, leading to Piazza Arnolfo; Via degli Olmi or Viale Matteotti, that goes uphill towards the first houses of Borgo, just below Palazzo Campana; Via Meoni, towards the Livini Tower and the steep Costa that climbs all the way up to the Baluardo.

Go back to top of page 

Borgo
The Porta Nova or Salis is a 15th century gate designed by Cecca and Giuliano da Sangallo in a military fashion, with two imposing cylindrical towers and leads to Via Gracco del Secco. On the right we come to the Museo San Pietro, built as a monastery in 1610 by Pietro Usimbardi of Colle, Archbishop of Arezzo, and designed by Giorgio Vasari the Younger as a contribution to an "ideal city". It is destined to house the Civic and Diocesan Museum, and important artistic exhibitions are regularly held in it. Via della Porta Vecchia stretches past the cistern of the Torrione, dating back to the 16th century and leads us across a bridge with 10 arches to the early 13th century Convent of S. Francesco. The façade of the church, in gilded local sandstone, faces west on a small square lined with cypresses that disclose beautiful views. The inside of the church has been completely modified and only sections of the ancient frescoes are still visible. Re-entering Borgo from Piazza Bajos, with its medieval houses in the south-eastern corner (Via dell'Amore and Via del Refe Nero), the street is flanked by dignified buildings. Worth seeing are Palazzo Tommasi, Palazzo Usimbardi, Palazzo Orlandini, Palazzo Galganetti and Palazzo Alessi. 

Proceeding further downhill we reach the small and graceful Piazza S.Caterina, renovated in post-modern style and looking toward S.Francesco. The Church of S.Caterina (15th century with later alterations) contains an admirable Lamentation on the body of Christ, attributed to Zaccaria Zacchi (early 16th century), a life-size group of six figures in polychrome terracotta of intense pathos; a 15th century stained-glass window with S. Caterina della Ruota and 17th century paintings. Leaving the square by Via Francesco del Campana, once called Via del Gioco Reale, the widest and most noble street of Colle, we come to Palazzo Renieri, now a hotel, Palazzo Ceramelli, Palazzo Apolloni, Palazzo Buoninsegni and finally the present-day Town-Hall (Palazzo Renieri-Portigiani), a late renaissance building with ashlar doorway, windows and decorative borders.

Go back to top of page 

Castello
On the other side of Ponte del Campana we can see the beautifully-set Palazzo Campana, built - so Vasari says - by Giuliano di Baccio d'Agnolo (around 1536) on the site of medieval fortifications and a drawbridge. The façade is highlighted by a great ashlar arch through which we enter the heart of the historical centre: Via del Castello. Immediately on the right, Via delle Romite breaks off with a slight slope and goes past the Fonte di Coveri and the entrance to Via delle Volte, a covered street evoking remote times. 

Continuing down Via del Castello, past medieval and renaissance buildings, we reach Palazzo Salvetti, the Bastione di Sapia, Palazzo Morozzi, Palazzo Giusti and, opposite Palazzo Dini, the entrance of the old Diocesan Seminary. 

We are now in Piazza del Duomo, surrounded by interesting buildings. On the north side: Palazzo del Podestà or Palazzo Pretorio, with coats of arms of Podestas and Commissioners on its façade and important frescoes inside. It contains the Archaeological Museum "Ranuccio Bianchi Bandinelli", that owes its rich collection of recently restored works of art to the notable commitment of the Archaeological Group of Colle.

 The Torre del Duomo, an unfinished tower with two large clock faces, stands tall just beside the building. Facing the tower, in the south-east corner of the square, are Palazzo Renieri, Palazzo del Popolo with its coats of arms and the Fontana di Piazza. On the eastern side is the façade of the Palazzo Vescovile. The Duomo (Cathedral) was built between 1603 and 1630 along with the Seminary and the Palazzo Vescovile to give dignity to the newly constituted Diocese of Colle (1592), on the site of the ancient Parish Church of S.Salvatore, whose façade is still visible on the left side of the present building. It contains numerous works of art such as the renaissance Pulpit attributed to Domenico Rosselli, the lateral chapels with precious paintings, the engraved sacristy doors, the Chapel of the Holy Nail, enclosed by a beautiful wrought-iron gate attributed to Drea di Lavaccio (15th century?) and exhibiting inside the famous bronze Lectern by Pietro Tacca (1629). The church also houses the Nativity by Morandini da Poppi (16th century), the Nativity by Rutilio Manetti (1635), the Baptismal font (1465) attributed to Benedetto or Giuliano da Maiano, the left-side organ once played by Frescobaldi and the precious Crucifix by Gianbologna and Pietro Tacca. 

The eastern side of the Bishop's palace is flanked by the picturesque Via di Mezzo, while further down Via del Castello we reach Palazzo dei Priori, whose façade is decorated by an elegant graffito (15th century) and by a large Medici coat of arms on the corner. On the first floor is the Civic and Sacred Art Museum: the three rooms contain interesting works such as: the wooden Crucifix by Marco Romano (beginning of the 14th century), the Majesty by the Maestro di Badia Isola (end of the 13th century), the Deposizione by Ridolfo del Ghirlandaio (1518) and the Treasure of Galognano (6th century). 

We can also find a rich collection of 19th and 20th paintings by local artists such as Antonio Salvetti, Vittorio Meoni and Ferruccio Manganelli. Just beyond a few medieval houses, we can see on the left side of the street the Teatro dei Varii, based on designs by Antonio Galli da Bibiena. From here we reach Piazza di Canonica overlooked by the north side of the Pisan-Romanesque Church of S. Maria in Canonica (12th-13th century). Via del Castello widens a little between medieval house-towers, the most noteworthy of which are the Pasci and Arnolfo Towers, facing each other. 

Tradition has it that Arnolfo was either born or lived in the tower that bears his name. At the end of the street there was once a gate called Porta al Canto, unfortunately demolished in 1876 to make room for Palazzo Masson. We finally come to the Baluardo, a mighty rampart dominating the circle of walls and one of the symbols of Colle, probably rebuilt following the siege of 1479. Turning back, we can stroll along the so-called Muro Lungo, that comes out on Via delle Romite and just around its bend to Palazzo Campana.

Go back to top of page 

The residential area of Le Grazie is on the road to Volterra. It is noteworthy for the Santuario di S.Maria alle Grazie with the remains of two cloisters of the convent. The roads to Casole d'Elsa and to San Gimignano start here; the nearby Abbazia di Conèo is one of the purest examples of the Tuscan-Romanesque style. Along the road to Volterra we reach Campiglia and two striking Romanesque parish churches - SS.Ippolito e Cassiano and S.Giovanni at Montegabbro, near a picturesque group of houses that are the last remnants of a late medieval convent.

Colle, a town that rises in a central position with respect to Siena and Florence, along the layout of the Frankish Road, is located at a distance of only 12 Km. from San Gimignano; it is better known as "the town of crystal."

Colle has approximately 18,000 inhabitants and it is surrounded by the typical and unmistakable Senese countryside with its farm holiday estates.

This Etruscan settlement, situated between Siena and Florence, suffered military aggression from both sides. It was involved in the battle of Monteaperti, allied with Florence, and suffered heavy defeat. Nine years later the Florentines won a battle fought in the territory of Colle Val d'Elsa. Provenzan Salvani, among the characters Dante meets in Purgatory, was killed in this battle. 

Go back to top of page 

Local Specialties

Staggia Castle and Town Walls

                            .

The castle.                                        The town walls.

The strengthened town of Staggia with its medieval castle is in the council of Poggibonsi, province of Siena. It's easily reachable from the exit 'Colle Valdelsa Sud' of the speedway Florence-Siena. More Photos

Elsa Valley
Thriving industry and architectural monuments with valuable works of art stand side by side in this area of contrasts. Poggibonsi is in the heart of the Val d’Elsa and is the home to many industries, especially the furnishings industry. Colle di val d’Elsa is famous for its crystal but is also an important tourist destination. The old part of the town is made up of narrow alleys, steps, and hills. It is possible to visit the Palazzo Vescovile, the museum of sacred art, and the characteristic Via delle Volte. Without a doubt, the most important town of the Val d’Elsa is San Gimignano, a town of many towers, built at one of the most important points of the Via Francigena. The town has preserved its 14^th century characteristics and boasts beautiful towers, historical palaces and important squares, such as the Piazza della Cisterna.

DA VINCI CRYSTAL is the most recent line of products to be created by CALP in Colle di Val d'Elsa; it is intended for the high-quality retail market and to meet the demand for the higher quality products, a demand which has remained partially unsatisfied due to the reduction in the supply of hand-made products. This has been made possible by the history of CALP, the first company in Italy to produce genuine lead crystal in the 1960's, far in before EEC regulations came into force.

Prestige Crystal Company.
In the heart of Tuscany, cradle of culture, amid the sweet green hills of the Chianti area, just a few miles from Siena and Florence, you will find the beautiful goblets, barware and giftware, all in pure lead crystal, are produced in Colle di Val d'Elsa, and enriched by hand cutting and decorating carried out by local artisans. The crystal can also be mounted on silver and metal stands to create special gifts and items for the table.

Vilca Crystal

Go back to top of page 

Neighbors

San Gimignano
The towered silhouette of San Gimignano rising from the hills of the Upper Elsa Valley, facing the land of Volterra and positioned right on one of the most important stretches of the mediaeval Via Francigena, is famous all over the world.

A similar renown can also be claimed by its Vernaccia wine, recently awarded the D.O.C.G., the highest acknowledgement and guarantee for quality in Italian genealogy. Among the numerous activities and cultural events, the prestigious international festival which is held in the month of July should be noted.

Wine

Vernaccia di San Gimignano

In the beautiful Tuscan countryside is San Gimignano, a classic 12th-century town perched high on a hilltop and known for its ruins of medieval towers.

Vernaccia di San Gimignano's origins are shrouded in the mists of time, over the centuries the vines adapted superbly to the soil around San Gimignano, and by the Renaissance Vernaccia was considered Italy's finest white wine, fit to fire the imaginations of poets, artists and Popes. In part because of its renown, it was the first Italian wine to be awarded DOC status, in 1966.

The enological revolution that is sweeping through Tuscany has reached San Gimignano as well; Vernaccia producers are improving their grapes, reducing their yields, and vinifying with care. As a result we are seeing a return of the wine that garnered so much acclaim in the past: 

Year Round: Winefests. a list of the more important wine festivals scheduled throughout the Peninsula. 

Grape Adventures: Tuscany boasts many of the finest wineries in the world. William Nesto organizes an exciting series of daytrips to some of the best, and all sorts of other interesting things too.

Montenidoli also owns La Fidanza, an excellent base from which to explore Tuscany.

Go back to top of page 

Museums and Churches

Museum of Medieval Criminology While on the subject of museums, not to be missed is the Museo di Criminologia Medievale (Medieval criminology museum) of San Gimignano, where instruments of torture from the Middle Ages up to the industrial era are displayed against a particularly suggestive backdrop. The numerous exhibits are accompanied by detailed photographic documentation illustrating their history and use.

Museum of Ornithology
BIBLIOTECA COMUNALE
R. Bianchi-Bandinelli Museum of Archaeology
Municipal and Religious Art Museum
TORRE GROSSA

There are some local tourist guides too: they will be very happy to show you how nice this town is.

Laura Venturi: tel.- fax 0577-940041 - she speak english, german, french;
Viviana Girola: tel. 0577-953167 - fax 0577-953007, she speaks french and english;
Chiara Biccellari: tel.- fax 0577-43819: she speaks english, french, spanish.

Go back to top of page 

Accommodations 

Relais Della Rovere

Former papal villa built in the Renaissance period (1470) to the order of the cardinal Giuliano della Rovere, who became Pope after two years, Giulio II. Adjoined to the covent villa in 1100   Renaissance building, obtained by Cardinal Giuliano della Rovere from the ancient Benedictine Abbey built in the XI century. A decorative two-storey building in a beautiful position facing the panoramic view of Colle Bassa and Colle Alta, with the della Rovere coat of arms on the facade. more info

Hotel Ristorante La Vecchia Cartiera

What we now call "La Vecchia Cartiera" (The Old Paper-mill) was a factory of valuable paper active since 1200. The old structure, located in the centre of Colle Val d'Elsa, has become a comfortable hotel after a careful refurbishing. The façade, characterised by harmonious arched windows, evidences the architectural traits of the paper-mills of that time.

Strove Castle was razed to the ground in 1300 and the fortress houses which still characterise it were built on its ruins.

  Poggiarello Country Holidays
Originally a watch-tower, dating back to the year 1000, as one will imagine from the unique stunning views of the Chianti hills. The silence and the sounds of the surrounding uncontaminated nature and the breathtaking sunsets will be unforgettable.

Il Portone Appartamenti per vacanze - Volterra (PI)

 Go back to top of page